north cascades & Mount Baker-Snoqualmie national forest

North Fork Sauk River

The North Fork Sauk River Trail is located in the Glacier Peak Wilderness section of Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and it passes through true Cascadian old-growth wilderness for its first 2-3 miles. Given that the area receives substantial snowfall in the winter, it’s amazing that the trees here have time and ability to grow as big as they do. Of the many hikes profiled in this guide, the North Fork Sauk is, in my opinion, the best mile-for-mile giant tree hike in the Washington Cascades. Those first few miles are packed with enormous western red cedars, Douglas Firs, and western hemlocks. These giants have been growing in this secluded valley for hundreds of years and their size is evidence of how hospitable the conditions are here.

Big tree enthusiasts can find some absolutely beautiful old-growth right on the trail. As hikers travel along the path, there is an amazing sense of being dwarfed by the majesty of this ancient forest. For those willing to engage in a bit of adventure, many massive trees of bizarre shapes are encountered off-trail as well, particularly near the banks of the river around mile three. Throughout the hike, the North Fork Sauk is always nearby, if not always visible, and provides a peaceful ambiance to scene.

For old-growth completists, there is another nearby trail up Forest Road 4096 in the South Fork Sauk River valley by the town of Bedal. Virtually unknown, the Bedal Creek Trail follows the Bedal Creek high from the hillside. The trail isn’t too populated by giant trees but there is the occasional large example.

Big Beaver trail

The many valleys that cut between Washington’s Cascade Range are home to forests so ancient and trees so large, they have few rivals around the world. Among the best of these is the Big Beaver river valley and the accompanying Big Beaver Trail. For approximately 7 miles (one-way), the trail follows the north side of Beaver Creek in between grove after grove of enormous western red cedar and Douglas Fir. There are two approaches to the valley: a boat ride through the mountain-flanked Ross Lake or the long hike from the Ross Dam trailhead, which adds an additional six miles to the one-way hike.

The trail derives its name from the the beavers that dam sections of the river to build their habitats - the same habitats that helped protect the valley from hydroelectric projects downstream. At first, it crosses Big Beaver Creek on a suspension bridge and enters a young forest forest. Hikers are treated to occasional views of the rushing river, marshes, and Sourdough Mountain. But the best section is found between miles three and six, where a parade of grove after grove of gigantic cedars appear. Some of these titans are nearly ten feet across and grow in close proximity. One group of nearly-fused trees appears as a massive wall of wood and is a striking sight along the trail.

Boulder River Trail

A local favorite, the Boulder River Trail traverses one of the most scenic river canyons in Washington. It is obvious that the boulder river has long since carved this canyon for many years. Steep and lush, the canyon walls support a variety of plants, including giant trees, moss, ferns, and bush.

Feature Show Falls and a number of waterfalls fall from the canyon heights but equally impressive are the huge spruces and firs here. These patriarchs have survived due to the enclosed and protected nature of this canyon. Some of the trees here are about 10 feet in diameter and draped in moss. And speaking of moss, a few stretches of the trail contain groves of bigleaf maple that are simply covered in green. The hike ends about 4-5 miles down the canyon, making this an ideal day hike, particularly on a rainy over overcast day.

Baker Lake trail

The Baker Lake Trail, on the other hand, crosses the Baker River on a long suspension bridge and follows the eastern bank of the lake south for its entire length. The trail is also accessed at its southern end as well and can be hiked north to the suspension bridge. Some of the largest trees and best old-growth are located in this north portion about three miles into the hike coming from the north. Here, hikers are treated to giant cedars, firs, and several lovely waterfalls.

The trail is well maintained with bridges located over the largest water crossings. This hike is much more popular than the Baker River Trail as witnessed by its much more worn path. The campground at Noisy Creek (about four miles from the campground) is a logical turnaround point but not before hikers are encouraged to take the Noisy Creek uphill about a half a mile to the gargantuan Noisy Creek Fir, which is almost 13 feet in diameter and one of the largest known Douglas firs by volume.

Thunder Creek Trail

Though the Thunder Creek Trail follows the river for over eight miles south into the North Cascades wilderness, the largest cedars and firs are located in the first two miles before the trail crosses the Thunder Creek to the first camp. Here, about one mile in, a grove of gigantic cedars grow in close proximity to the trail, dwarfing hikers and serving up some truly ancient old-growth. Visible are the large roots of a few trees perched on the hillsides that extend nearly all the way down to the trail. The path is fairly level so the area is accessible to people of all skill levels. This grove is a magnificent introduction to a backpacking trail, that if followed for miles, penetrates far into the forest.

lake 22

Only a little over an hour away from Seattle, Lake 22 is a classic giant tree hike that climbs through an ancient forest before terminating at a stunning mountain lake. Pictures of the lake are featured here. The rivers that drain from the peaks around Mount Pilchuck have carved deep valleys over the millennia, including the one to Lake 22. After about 1/2 a mile into the hike, giant western red cedars begin to flank the trail on both sides. And for the next mile, the views into the forest only get better. Later, as the trail exits the forest through switchbacks, the trees appear smaller until hikers reach the rewarding lake.

Miller River

An off-trail, bushwhacking adventure awaits intrepid explorers in the valley surrounding the Miller River of Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Given that there are no trails, this valley and its forest are infrequently explored and disregarded by hiking guidebooks. One solitary road, Miller River Road, traverses the land and penetrates the dense, rainforest passing through an untold number of giant trees starting around three miles south of Highway 2.

The best place to begin is the Miller River Group Campground. Close to the northern boundary of the campsite is a grove of about 10 titanic western redcedars, some of which are around 10 feet or so in diameter. More huge trees appear on both sides of the road further south for those willing to explore.

indian creek trail & White river trail

There are two old growth trails north of Lake Wenatchee in the Glacier Peak Wilderness area that contain scatterings of huge trees: the Indian Creek Trail and the White River Trail. Both follow the banks of the milky blue White River as it flows southward from the heights of White Mountain. The Indian Creek trail, in particular, has two notable groves. One is located a few hundred feet from the car park and has an absolutely gigantic cedar that must be around 15 feet in diameter and the other is located at about the two mile mark before the trail crosses Indian Creek and starts climbing.

mount rainier national park

Grove of the patriarchs

If it’s solitude that big tree enthusiasts seek, they won’t find it at Mount Rainier National Park’s Grove of the Patriarchs. For the throngs of visitors who enter the park yearly, this grove offers a sufficient taste of the Cascades’ rich forests. Plenty of signage on the route down to the water crossing identifies various species of giant trees with useful information for the uninitiated. The boardwalk trail protects tree roots and guides folks around the small grove - even around individual trees themselves! The popularity of the trail is certainly due to the incredible sizes of the cedars and firs here. These behemoths owe their uninterrupted growth to their location on an island with rich moisture that has protected them from fire. It’s definitely worth the obligatory stopover.

The Eastside Trail (Ohanapecosh River)

More adventurous hikers will find solitude on the Eastside Trail that originates from the same trailhead leading to the Grove of Patriarchs. This trail follows the Ohanapecosh River for approximately 10 miles northward to Caycuse Pass. Some of the largest trees are located in the first mile as well as about five miles further north but the entire path consists of classic riparian old-growth. Several 700-year old Douglas firs located on this trail are survivors of several fires and look absolutely incredible next to their younger neighbors. As an added bonus, those who travel far enough will eventually encounter the photogenic Ohanapecosh Falls and Stafford Falls right on the trail.

Cowlitz Divide Trail (Olallie Creek)

The third trail originating from Grove of Patriarchs area is the often overlooked and neglected Cowlitz Divide Trail. The path steadily climbs a hill populated by massive western hemlocks, pacific silver firs, and Douglas firs. Many of these giants are over 500 years old and have long developed unique shapes and contortions. The hemlocks, covered in moss, are particularly primordial-looking and some of the most interesting trees are snags that have long since died and are experiencing different types of decay.

Carbon River Trails

The Carbon River Trails, located at the very northwest section of Mount Rainier National Park, are a series of short hikes through a unique ecosystem: an inland temperate rainforest. Carbon River Road used to run through the area but repeated flooding prompted its permanent closure. Now, hikers and mountain bikers can walk or ride the road and observe humongous trees at a slower pace. The trails radiating from the Carbon River Road include a 3.4-mile roundtrip (9.6 mile roundtrip from ranger station) path to Ranger Falls and Green Lake; and the 0.4 mile roundtrip (8.0 mile roundtrip from ranger station) path to Chenuis Falls. The much shorter and kid-friendly 0.3-mile Rainforest Loop Trail begins right from the ranger station.

IPsut Creek trail

Connecting Mowich Lake/Tolmie Peak to the Carbon River Trails discussed above, the Ipsut Creek Trail is a leg burner: 10-miles out-and-back with one section climbing approximately 3,000 feet in only 3.5 miles. The biggest species here is Alaska Yellow Cedar, with a particularly notable grove around three miles into the hike (pictured below). The mature trees in this particular grove are hundreds of years old and have developed unique characteristics. The rest of the forest holds a diverse, smaller-sized collection of trees and the trail through it never strays too far from Ipsut Creek.

Huckleberry Creek Trail

Huckleberry Creek, a beautiful river valley running north from Mount Rainier, is perfect for hikers who seek wilderness solitude. For the first mile, the trail travels through Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and then enters the northeast section of Mt. Rainier National Park, where the real old-growth begins. The valley isn’t stocked with a plethora of massive trees, though there are a few notable specimens. This lonely valley is better know as a wonderfully stunning example of a classic Cascadian forest.

Mount St. Helens & Gifford Pinchot National Forest

Cedar flats

Walking through the giant trees of Cedar Flats Research Natural Area gives one a unique sense of awe and majesty only achieved in the presence of old-growth. This 112-acre forest on the east side of Mount St. Helens was set aside in 1947 as a pristine example of ancient Pacific Northwest rainforest to help scientists study its complex and diverse ecosystem. The entire grove sits on a flat bench with a wonderful view of the Muddy River. One short loop trail circles the diverse flora of western hemlock, western redcedar, and, of course, Douglas Fir.

One of the largest Douglas Firs in the world, aptly named the “Cedar Flats Sentinel” grows in this area, off-trail. Its location is only known to the few fortunate enough to have ventured successful after it but many enormous trees can also be found through careful scouting, including the enormous cedar pictured here.

lewis river trail

An essential hike in the ancient forests of Gifford Pinchot National Forest, the Lewis River Trail is one of the best riverside hikes in Cascadia and one of the prettiest. Throughout its length the views from the trail across the river are sublime. The vegetation encroaches right to the water bank in several sections. Though the trees aren’t enormous, the old-growth, moss-laden environment is nevertheless endlessly appealing. Hikers are treated to the calming sound of the water as they travel.

The trail is almost 14 miles in length, one-way. For fans of old-growth the best portion of the trail is the first 3-4 miles to around where the trail reaches Bolt Camp. The campground, an old lean-to built in 1931 and refurbished twice since, is a reasonable turn-around point for day-hikers. However, those who wish to continue on can access three large waterfalls farther north: Lower, Middle, and Upper Falls, profiled here.

Giant Trees of Lost Creek

In a hidden and undisclosed location near the southern end of Gifford Pinchot National Forest, a small grove of huge Douglas Firs and Western Red Cedars grown in a valley surrounded by mountains. The steep terrain affords trees protection from the harshest elements and has permitted them to grow uninterrupted for hundreds of years. One particularly gnarly and stout fir, named the Russ Jolley Fir, looks as if it has anchored this forest for hundreds of years. It, along with other trees benefit from the nutritious soil of the creek that runs through the area.

Goat Marsh Lake

For fans of tree superlatives, the Goat Marsh Lake area southwest of Mount St. Helens is an important region to explore. The dominant tree here is Noble Fir and although these particular trees aren’t as massive or wide as western red cedars and Douglas Firs elsewhere near the volcano, Goat Marsh contains eight of the ten largest Noble Firs in the world, some of which reach incredible heights. Robert van Pelt’s “Forest Giants of the Pacific Coast” identifies two of these towering trees, including “Riker!” and the “Goat Marsh Giant,” and hints at another just shy of 300 feet tall - all found in this amazing grove. Perhaps more amazing, the Firs around Goat Marsh contain the highest cubic feet per acre of biomass of anywhere in the Northwest, only surpassed by coastal redwoods to the south.

Extra: Puget Sound Region

Between the towering mountains of the Cascades to east and the coastal rainforests to the west, is the great Puget Trough ecoregion - a large inland arm of the Puget Sound and the home a majority of Washington’s population. Though most of the old-growth forests here are gone, small pockets of conserved areas do exist. Giant trees can be found on places as diverse as island parks like Deception Pass State Park or lowland forests like Lewis & Clark State Park, which really highlights how adaptive old-growth forests can be if left undisturbed.

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